Visit Lisieux, France – In the Footsteps of St. Thérèse
Visiting Lisieux, France should be at the top of the list for all Catholics. It is a short detour on the way to Mont Saint Michel from Paris, and can easily be done in one day.
Use this post to help plan a self-guided tour of Lisieux. Follow in the footsteps of one of the greatest saints of our time and doctor of the church, St. Thérèse of Lisieux.
“The world’s thy ship and not thy home” – St. Therese of Lisieux
Introduction
Growing up, my family only owned a handful of movies on VHS. My parents didn’t believe in spending money on entertainment they saw as unnecessary, but they were more than willing to invest in Catholic films for us kids.
The few tapes we did have, my siblings and I watched over and over until we had nearly memorized them. The ones I remember most vividly were about Our Lady of Lourdes and St. Bernadette, Our Lady of Fatima and the three shepherd children, and, of course, St. Thérèse of Lisieux, the Little Flower.
Because of that, she was one of the first saints I ever learned about. So when I reverted to the faith she was one of the saints I had a devotion to.
I loved that she emphasized her “little way.” From her I learned that sainthood doesn’t require grand gestures or dramatic miracles. Holiness can be found in the small, hidden moments of everyday life. She showed me that even the most ordinary acts, when done with love and offered to God, can become something holy.
“Our Lord does not look so much at the greatness of our actions, or even at their difficulty, as at the love with which we do them.” – St. Thérèse of Lisieux
I believe this is from her own spiritual autobiography, “The Story of a Soul”, where St. Thérèse recounts how the clinking of a sister’s rosary beads during prayer deeply bothered her, but she learned not to let it disturb or annoy her.
I loved how relatable she was when I read that story. Like St. Thérèse, I can easily get irritated by little things. But in imitation of her, I attempt to offer those moments to God, for the love of others and for my own sanctification.
“Remember that nothing is small in the eyes of God. Do all that you do with love.” – St. Thérèse of Lisieux
Since my reversion, visiting Lisieux was always at the top of my list, right alongside Lourdes. So you can imagine my excitement when that long-held hope became a reality, and I had the blessing of visiting Lisieux with my husband and our families!
About Lisieux
Lisieux is a small town in the Normandy region of northwestern France. It became home to the Martin family after the death of St. Thérèse’s mother, Zélie Martin. This quiet town is where Thérèse grew up, entered the Carmelite convent, and where her “little way” of holiness took root.
The Martin’s were originally from Alençon, a nearby town renowned for its delicate, handcrafted lace. Alençon lace has been used by top fashion designers and is still prized today, especially for its role in creating exquisite liturgical vestments used in Catholic worship. Visiting Alençon is high on my list, too, both for its connection to the Martin family and for the beauty of the sacred craftsmanship that continues there.
The town itself is relatively small and quaint. Like much of Normandy, it’s surrounded by lush greenery, and the climate tends to be cooler due to its location further north.
We visited in May, just after Easter that year. The weather was cool and a bit overcast, but still beautiful in that soft, peaceful way that feels fitting for a place like Lisieux.
Despite Lisieux being the second most visited pilgrimage site in France, the town wasn’t crowded, and we found it easy to get around by car. It made the pilgrimage feel all the more relaxed and personal.
Where to Stay
We stayed at an incredible place called Domaine des Essarts, a large property with rich historical and agricultural significance, nestled within an apple orchard. It was truly stunning and one of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed in France.
My family loved this accommodation. Each room was spacious and thoughtfully designed, each with its own unique theme. The entire domaine felt carefully crafted, blending comfort and beauty in a way that made our stay all the more memorable.
I highly recommend staying at Domaine des Essarts if you have the chance. The owners are a lovely and accommodating couple. The property is also home to a boutique offering a variety of locally produced delights.
My mother-in-law found it after extensive research so you can trust that she did her due diligence. You can find their listings on Airbnb or directly from their site here, where you can avoid the additional fees. They speak English well and will guide you through the entire process.
They craft popular French apple cider and liqueurs, including AOP Cider, pommeau, calvados, poiré, apple juice, cider vinegar, balsamic vinegar, jams, jellies, and chutneys, all made from organic agriculture. Guests are kindly invited to enjoy a tasting as part of their stay, which adds a special, authentic touch to the experience.
The accommodation package also included a wonderful French breakfast. It was waiting for us on the dining table by the time we all got up.
My 90-year old grandpa especially loved this place. He loved his room and loved watching the horses grazing outside his window.
Where to Eat
For dinner, we ate at Restaurant Le Pot d’Étain, a charming spot recommended to us by our hosts. It’s located in a neighboring town just outside Lisieux, but well worth the drive.
The restaurant is set in a rustic, traditional Normandy-style building, with an interior that’s both quaint and cozy. I absolutely loved the atmosphere, it felt like stepping into a warm country kitchen in the heart of the northern French countryside. The setting alone made the meal memorable, even before the food arrived.
They served a variety of traditional French dishes, and we were able to try the entrecôte (steak frites), magret de canard (duck breast), and a few fresh fish dishes. Everyone in our group was happy with their meals—the portions were generous, and everything was flavorful and satisfying. Prices were very reasonable for both the quality and the portion sizes.
Places to Visit
Basilica of Saint Thérèse of Lisieux
This gorgeous basilica dedicated to St. Thérèse of Lisieux is a must-visit for anyone coming to the town. With more than two million visitors each year, it is the second-largest pilgrimage site in France, after Lourdes.
As you make your way up to the towering basilica, perched at the top of a hill, you can’t help but be in awe of its beauty and splendor.
I personally think the exterior is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. It’s grand and majestic, yet there’s a certain delicateness in the details that softens it. It truly does justice in honoring St. Thérèse, affectionately known as “The Little Flower.”
The interior of the church is opulent, with intricate mosaics covering much of the ceiling and walls. Throughout the basilica, you’ll find images of St. Thérèse from her infancy through her years in the Carmelite convent, creating a visual journey of her life and spiritual growth.
Lower Crypt
In the crypt on the lower level of the basilica, you’ll find the relics of Sts. Louis and Zélie martin, the parents of St. Thérèse. It’s truly moving to be able to venerate their relics right inside the basilica dedicated to their daughter, a testament to the holiness of the entire Martin family.
You can light a candle and write down your prayer intentions, asking for their intercession: “The prayer of a righteous man has great power in its effects” (RSV-2CE, James 5:16).
The lower crypt itself is quite beautiful, adorned with elaborate mosaics throughout. It appears to serve as the smaller chapel where daily Mass is celebrated.
In a side chapel, you will find a room dedicated to the adoration of the Eucharist.
Museum
Attached to the basilica is a small museum dedicated to the life of Thérèse. It features life-sized wax figure scenes that depict significant moments from her life.
Walking through the exhibits was both informative and moving. It is a great way to become more deeply acquainted with the life and spirituality of St. Thérèse.
Carmel de Lisieux/ Carmel of Lisieux
The next stop on your itinerary should be the Carmel of Lisieux, located not far from the basilica. Visitors are welcome to enter the chapel and shrine of St. Thérèse, but access to the rest of the monastery is restricted, as it is still home to a religious community of Carmelite sisters.
This is the very monastery where St. Thérèse entered the Carmelite order and lived out her hidden life of prayer and sacrifice until her death at the young age of 24. It is also here, within this Carmelite monastery, that the body of St. Thérèse is buried.
Side Story
As a young child, my parents took us to visit the traveling relic of St. Thérèse when it was on tour in the United States. My parents told me that inside the reliquary was the body of St. Thérèse. I remember being so confused as to how she could fit inside there.
Shrine of St. Thérèse
The beautiful tomb of St. Thérèse is adorned with flowers and the statue of her lying in repose gives the impression of peaceful sleep. Her body rests beneath the glass tomb.
Above the shrine is the original statue of Our Lady of the Smile, which belonged to the Martin family. This is the very statue that Thérèse saw smiling at her when she was miraculously healed of her childhood illness. It was also during that miracle that Thérèse was brought out of this slump that she was in since her mother’s death. From that moment, it was recounted that she changed completely from her previous ways.
I was so in awe to see this particular statue of the Virgin Mary because I finally could see in person the miraculous statue that I watched in the movie of St. Thérèse growing up. That scene really left an impression on me. Years ago, I even purchased my own little statue of Our Lady of the Smile, which I dearly love to this day.
Carmelite Museum
Within the Carmelite monastery is a museum dedicated to St. Thérèse. It houses personal items such as her habit and handcrafted belongings.
The museum also displays photos of Thérèse and glimpses into her life in the Carmel, including pictures of her cell. One particularly moving exhibit is the door frame of her room, which visitors can actually walk through, offering a tangible connection to her daily life and quiet holiness.
Les Buissonnets – St. Thérèse’s Childhood Home
Another great site to visit in Lisieux is the Martin family home, Les Buissonnets, which was converted into a museum for pilgrims. The Martin’s lived in a charming brick house, furnished with ornate wooden furniture and containing many personal belongings of the family.
Here, you can explore the common family rooms of the Martin’s, as well as the rooms of St. Thérèse, her sisters’, and St. Louis Martin. It was truly surreal to see the exact toys Thérèse played with as a child and to admire paintings by one of her older sisters hanging on the walls.
In Thérèse’s room, a replica of Our Lady of the Smile is placed where the original once stood, at the very spot where she experienced her miraculous healing. The original statue, as I mentioned earlier, is kept at the Carmel of Lisieux.
“In trial or difficulty I have recourse to Mother Mary, whose glance alone is enough to dissipate every fear” – St. Therese of Lisieux
In the garden, you’ll find beautiful life-sized statues depicting Thérèse asking her father’s permission to allow her to become a Carmelite nun, placed right at the very spot where the conversation took place. From there, you also get a beautiful view of Lisieux.
Admission is donation based, so you pay what you can. It is organized by a few ladies who lead you through the house. At each room, an audio recording will play in the language of your choice choosing from French, English, German, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, Polish, or Portuguese
When we visited, the museum was quiet and uncrowded, making for a very pleasant experience. The ladies who work there were kind and especially accommodating to visitors with disabilities.
Other Recommendations for Lisieux, France
We stayed in Lisieux for one day and were able to see everything we wanted. If we had stayed another day, we likely would have explored more beautiful Catholic churches nearby and sampled additional delicious restaurants. Below are some recommendations of beautiful churches in the area worth visiting
If you find yourself in France, I hope this post inspires you to take a day trip to Lisieux. Walking in the footsteps of one of the greatest saints of our time is a deeply moving spiritual experience you won’t forget.
Yours in Christ,
A & D