Everything to help plan your trip to Dutch Harbor/Unalaska
The Aleutian Islands will leave you awestruck. Unalaska is a land of intense natural beauty with fuming volcanoes, towering mountains rising out of the sea, and incredible wildlife.
Unalaska has a fascinating rich history, influenced by the Unangan natives who lived on the island for thousands of years, the Russian fur traders present in the 18th and 19th centuries, and the U.S. military which had a large presence during the Second World War. As in many remote communities, particularly in Alaska, the locals are very friendly and helpful.
I had the chance to visit Dutch Harbor regularly on three Coast Guard ships and spent up to two weeks at a time there on some occasions. Few tourists, let alone Alaskans, make it out to Unalaska, which is part of its off-the-beaten-path charm. Unless you arrive on a cruise, you can fly in on a three-hour flight from Anchorage, on either Ravn or Aleutian Airways or you can take the three-and-a-half day Alaska Marine Highway Ferry from Homer, Alaska that comes once a month in the summer.
The Catholic Church in Unalaska
This town has it all, or almost, with great options for food, one main hotel, and multiple stores. It even has a Catholic Church, the parish of St. Christopher by the Sea, but there is a catch. Due to the remoteness of the island, there is no priest permanently assigned there. Instead, a priest flies in monthly for about a week to offer Mass and provide the sacraments. In his absence, a deacon living in Unalaska provides the liturgy of the word and distributes previously consecrated hosts on Sundays and certain days of the week. To confirm Mass times, it’s best to call the church at (907) 581-4022.
Map of Dutch Harbor/Unalaska
Things to Do
- Summit majestic mountains such as Pyramid peak, Mt Ballyhoo, and Mt Newhall.
- Taste the fresh seafood coming straight from the Bering Sea or catch it yourself.
- Get to know unfamiliar Alaskan and WWII history.
- Experience the wildlife spectacle of whales, sea otters, foxes and unique birds.
About the Name: Unalaska
If you associate Dutch Harbor with the Deadliest Catch TV show, you are spot-on. Most people living in this wildly remote part of the world are tied in some way to the fishing industry. Although few outsiders know that the legitimate name of the island and town is Unalaska. While Dutch Harbor is officially the name of the port, many people also refer to the town as Dutch Harbor or just Dutch.
Photo courtesy of J. Miller.
Best Times to Visit Unalaska
Visiting Unalaska between June and November is ideal. To say that the weather is intense in the Aleutians is an understatement. I once witnessed a storm there move cars and containers as if they were matchboxes blowing in a breeze. While the sub-polar oceanic climate is not too cold for Alaskan standards, the winds often seem to make the prevalent rain or snow fall horizontal rather than vertical. So pack a raincoat over an umbrella, and be ready to wear multiple layers of clothing. It’s also no secret that the islands are often enveloped in thick fog. Part of the adventure of coming here involves being prepared for your flight in or out to be canceled due to bad visibility. When the weather lifts though, and it can change fast, you will be struck by the surreal beauty surrounding you, coupled admittedly with a certain sentiment of isolation.
Networks
Speaking of isolation, unless your phones have the Alaskan provider GCI, you will not get any cell service. The library has free wifi and other places throughout the town such as Safeway, the Airport and the Grand Aleutian hotel also offer wifi (OptimERA), but for a fee. If you don’t want to pay for wifi, you can rent cell phones from BC Vehicle Rental.
To help counter the remoteness, the city has some state-of-the-art facilities such as a huge gymnasium with two racquetball courts, an indoor basketball court and work out rooms, and an aquatic center with a six-lane 25 yard pool, a waterslide, a sauna and a fitness center in a mezzanine above the pool.
Getting Around Unalaska
To drive on Unalaska’s 38-mile road system (just under 10 miles are paved) you can rent a vehicle at the airport, either from BC Vehicle Rental or North Port Rentals. Upon arriving, you may think Unalaska is too small to be the main hub for the Aleutian region, and yet, it is a metropolis in comparison to Akutan, Nikolski, Adak and St. Paul, which are other remote settlements in the surrounding Aleutian and Pribilof Islands.
Lodging
The Grand Aleutian is the main hotel on the island. Rooms are comfortable and the service is excellent. Make sure to reserve in advance, rates start at $215/night.
The Harbor View Inn offers cheaper rooms with a starting rate of $175/night. This is approximately the nightly rate you get for the Airbnbs or VRBO lodgings on the island such as Alexandria House and Anchors Away. You can also look into Windy Island bungalows.
It is possible to camp on Unalaska as long as you have a land use permit from the Ounalashka Corporation (please see more information below on obtaining a permit found in the “Hiking” section).
Stores in Dutch Harbor
Head to Safeway for all your grocery needs. It’s just as big as a Safeway found in the continental United States, but due to the great distances from anywhere, don’t expect cheap prices nor the freshest of produce.
Alaska Ship Supply is the iconic store on the island. I always enjoyed going through the store and looking at all the clothing and gear for fishing and boating. You can find groceries here too. Many visitors like to buy a sweatshirt from there as a Dutch Harbor souvenir. LFS Dutch Harbor is also a good store for fishing gear.
The Corner Store is a convenience store that has packaged snacks as well as freshly cooked Asian specialties and drinks that change on a weekly basis. It’s a great stop for a quick snack after a workout at the gym or Aquatic Center.
Where to Eat in Unalaska
For such a remote island, Unalaska has a good amount of different cuisines and delicious options for food, though admittedly not so cheap.
Buffet
If you have the budget for it, don’t miss the Chart Room inside the Grand Aleutian Hotel. They offer a decadent all-you-can-eat seafood buffet every Wednesday evening and Sunday for brunch. I would recommend experiencing it at least once in a lifetime. If you love king crab, salmon, shrimp, ahi and sushi this will be a scrumptious experience. Their Prime rib is also delicious and they have many dessert choices. The price is now $65/person, which does not include drinks. The Chart Room also offers dishes a la carte every day. My favorite dessert there is the chocolate lava cake. There are other restaurants and cafes inside the hotel that you can also try.
Asian Cuisine
Have you ever gone to an airport just to eat dinner? Turns out that’s the thing to do here. The aptly named Airport Restaurant offers good Asian dishes such as Ramen and Vermicelli noodles. It can be quite comforting after a long hike or a cold wet day.
Another great option is the Harbor Sushi, which connects directly with Harbor Bar and Grill. The Bar and Grill offers classic American food such as Burgers, pizzas and wings, which is fine if you don’t like sushi. But the sushi restaurant is the place to go if you want to taste good-quality and fresh seafood. The green tea ice cream also makes for a great dessert. The bar has a giant Jenga game and ping pong tables which lead to fun evenings. The other main bar in town, the Norwegian Rat Saloon is also popular with corn hole and air hockey tables. Fishermen like to hangout at both bars.
Mexican Cuisine
Finally, don’t miss out on the Mexican restaurant Amelia’s known for its generous portions and milkshakes. If you’re adventurous, try the avocado milkshake or just stick with the popular cookies and cream milkshake. I recommend paying in cash rather than credit cards.
What to Do
1. Visit the Historical Sites
These include the World War II structures throughout the island and the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Ascension, with its treasure of icons. One of my biggest regrets while there was not visiting inside the cathedral, but the Orthodox priest is known to be very generous to anyone requesting to tour the church. There are also services that you can attend which are offered in a mix of Slavonic, Unangan and English.
The town has some great museums such as the Museum of the Aleutians and the Aleutian World War II Visitor Center. Both are must-see museums where you’ll learn more about the intriguing history of the Unangans and their forced evacuation during the Second World War, and the little known history of the Battle of Dutch Harbor and the Aleutians campaign.
Memorial Park has a special place in my heart. It has a touching memorial for World War II in the Aleutians. There is also a United States Coast Guard memorial for the Bering Sea Patrol, for which I did nine deployments. The peace memorial is very moving, it shows the words “May Peace Prevail on Earth” in the eight languages of the community of Unalaska.
2. Go Hiking and Look for Wildlife
On Unalaska’s thrilling hikes, you might not see a tree, but the tundra covered mountains offer an otherworldly scenery. Before you trek around the island, make sure to get a recreational land use permit from the Ounalashka Corporation either in person or online as they own most of the land around Unalaska. If you go in person, they can provide you with a very helpful trail map. The daily fee is $10/individual or $15/family, while the weekly fee is $20/individual or $25/family. This permit is also required if you will be picking the delicious salmonberries and wild blueberries that grow in the summer.
You won’t have to worry about bears on the island, and thankfully there are few mosquitoes. You are however likely to observe eagles, foxes, sea otters and in the summer, humpback whales. The most aggressive local is probably the bald eagle. Don’t get too close to their nests or they might attack. You will soon see why they earned the unofficial nickname ‘dumpster chickens’. But I personally like to call them Alaskan pigeons, as you won’t have to try hard to find them. Once you see them in a landfill or bickering for scraps of fish around the harbor, you might lose your image of them as majestic creatures, and you might even side with Benjamin Franklin on favoring the Turkey as a more respectable bird than the symbolic bird of the United States.
Hike to Fort Schwataka
For your first hike, head to Fort Schwatka on Mount Ballyhoo. The World War II coastal battery bunkers, tunnels, and gun mounts, still stand guard today over the harbor. You can easily find parking on Ballyhoo Road and walk up the gravel road of Ulakta drive all the way to the fort. In the summer, look out for humpback whales in Iliuliuk and Unalaska bays, but don’t get too close to the cliff edge. If this hike is too much of a climb, you can go up the much shorter bunker hill to explore WWII bunkers.
Ulakta via Spit Head
Another short stroll in the Ulakta head area is along Spit Head. The fishy smell goes away once you get past the Trident Seafoods cannery, and you can get a good view of the fishing vessels coming in and out of the harbor. The paved road eventually shifts to a trail that continues to the navigation aid tower. This makes for a great little flat run. Keep your eyes peeled for sea otter rafts and eagles perched on crab pots.
Pyramid Trail
Another must do hike is Pyramid trail, which takes you through rolling hills of tundra. You can either start from Pyramid Creek Road or from E Broadway Avenue. At one point the trail branches off to summit the peak, and it’s one of the most exhilarating climbs for more advanced hikers. Look out for foxes and ptarmigans. Reference our markers on the map as the part of the trail going to the summit is not shown on google maps or All trails. Another fun mountain to climb is Mount Newhall. The trail starts at the WWII memorial and it is well indicated on All trails.
Overland Drive to Summer Bay
For your next excursion, consider driving on Overland drive from Unalaska lake to Summer bay. This mountainous dirt road is open in the summer and offers breathtaking views. From this road, you can hike the Ugadaga Bay trail that goes by a waterfall, or the Peace of Mind trail. Both are well indicated on google maps.
Don’t skip exploring Summer Bay, where you can walk along the sandy beach and along the tide pools. On the drive from town, look out for rafts of sea otters huddling by dozens. You will also see many WWII vestiges along the road and perhaps you will spot the local herd of semi-wild horses.
3. Go Sport Fishing
The Bering Sea is one of the richest marine ecosystems in the world and so there are great options for catching fish, especially in the summer. The main species you might catch are Halibut, multiple types of Salmon (depending on the time of year), Pacific Cod and Rockfish. The main charters in town are Keepin’ it reel, Fish on Charters, and Miss Alyssa. You can also try to fish for sockeye salmon (June and July) and Coho (August) in the local streams depending on the time of year. Go to the Alaska Fish and Wildlife Department website to buy a license prior to casting a line.
Conclusion
To conclude, visiting Dutch Harbor will be an unconventional adventure. Don’t let the remoteness and weather scare you from experiencing this wonderful community and fiercely beautiful part of the world! If you ache to see the wild beauty of creation, more beautiful even than the scenery in a Lord of the Rings movie, and discover some of the forgotten drama of human history, this island will certainly surpass your expectations.
